Tuning with the Enemy: Cuba by Takashi Yogi I was attempting to find the cause of a wobbly hammer in a piano in Cuba. Students at the music school watched intently while we gringos resurrected some battered Russian pianos. We came from Michigan, Vermont, Iowa, Oregon, California, New York, France; sixteen piano technicians against hundreds of piano relics. Then I found the problem. There in the wooden hinge of the piano hammer were two termites having dinner. I knew from the start that this trip was crazy. I met the leader of the project, Ben Treuhaft, when he passed through Santa Cruz to raise funds for Send a Piana to Havana. He's the son of author Jessica Mitford, and the fearless revolutionary spirit has been inherited. He has been taking pianos to Cuba since 1995 in defiance of the US embargo of Cuba. He got permission from the US Commerce Department to send pianos with the restriction that they not be used for "human rights abuse or torture". But the Treasury Department threatened to fine him $1.3 million for trading with the enemy. Ben's work sounded interesting, so I volunteered to add my modest piano repair skills to the brigade in late February. That is how I spent 10 days of my vacation time, paying over a thousand dollars to work hard in a country with marginal food, no toilet seats, and horrible pianos. What I learned from this experience is the absurdity of the forty-year US embargo of Cuba. The Cubans are struggling to get by with relics that predate the 1959 revolution. Cuba is a living museum of American cars from the fifties, kept running with determination and baling wire. Their pianos also are the same vintage, except for hundreds of cheap Russian pianos. But even those imports ended with the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991. I saw many talented children valiantly struggling to practice on broken, out-of-tune pianos. Food is scarce, especially in Havana, where ration stores have meager supplies. Medicine is also scarce. Buildings are crumbling for lack of materials. But the Cubans are patient and determined. The embargo hurts the Cubans, but it will not bring Castro down; if anything it supports him by allowing him to blame the US for all the privation. The US embargo keeps other countries from trading freely with Cuba. For example, an Italian ship docking in Cuba cannot dock in the US for six months. The last UN vote on the embargo had only the US and Israel voting for it. But the US bullies all countries to conform, making it difficult and expensive for Cuba to obtain supplies such as pianos and piano parts. So almost all the pianos in Cuba are falling apart or being eaten by voracious termites. We helped a bit by bringing 50 donated pianos, parts and tools, and by conducting classes for Cuban piano tuners. But the only real way to beat the termites is to end the embargo. The Cubans have overcome the material limitations to create some remarkable social programs. I saw extensive music education programs not only in Havana, but in the rural areas. Any child can get free piano lessons, or violin lessons, or ballet classes. Literacy is about 96%. We saw one school that offered a complete acrobatics program. Cuba provides free medical care for everyone. Infant mortality is lower than in Washington D.C. I didn't see anyone homeless. We visited a large psychiatric facility that provides excellent therapy programs including painting, pottery, weaving, dance, sports, and music. We enjoyed a performance by the residents' band and chorus. The Cubans have even turned the shortages of the embargo into benefits. The lack of petroleum has forced a massive conversion to organic agriculture and alternative transportation. There are many bicycles and horse carts, and the buses are always crowded. But there are no traffic jams in Havana (2 million), and the air is clear. The embargo works both ways. It keeps us from getting Cuban music and culture. The music of the Buena Vista Social Club is an example of what we might be missing by erecting barriers. We are also missing valuable ideas about education, health, and agriculture. Cuba conducts advanced medical research and has developed some new vaccines. We could also be selling food and goods (lots of toilet seats) to Cuba and enjoying its fine beaches. Cuba poses no military threat to the US. Perhaps what our government fears is that Americans will peek over the wall and see what a poor but dedicated country can accomplish when it values the welfare of its people, especially children, more than military might. I hope that music can help to breach the wall. As in ancient Jericho, when the people blow the trumpets, the walls will come tumbling down. Published in the Aptos Times Home Page: http://tyogi.org/