Tuning with the Enemy:  Cuba
          by Takashi Yogi

              I was attempting to find the cause of a wobbly hammer
          in a piano in Cuba.  Students at the music school watched
          intently while we gringos resurrected some battered
          Russian pianos.  We came from Michigan, Vermont, Iowa,
          Oregon, California, New York, France; sixteen piano
          technicians against hundreds of piano relics.  Then I
          found the problem.  There in the wooden hinge of the piano
          hammer were two termites having dinner.
              I knew from the start that this trip was crazy.  I met
          the leader of the project, Ben Treuhaft, when he passed
          through Santa Cruz to raise funds for Send a Piana to
          Havana.  He's the son of author Jessica Mitford, and the
          fearless revolutionary spirit has been inherited.  He has
          been taking pianos to Cuba since 1995 in defiance of the
          US embargo of Cuba.  He got permission from the US
          Commerce Department to send pianos with the restriction
          that they not be used for "human rights abuse or torture".
          But the Treasury Department threatened to fine him $1.3
          million for trading with the enemy.  Ben's work sounded
          interesting, so I volunteered to add my modest piano
          repair skills to the brigade in late February.  That is
          how I spent 10 days of my vacation time, paying over a
          thousand dollars to work hard in a country with marginal
          food, no toilet seats, and horrible pianos.
              What I learned from this experience is the absurdity
          of the forty-year US embargo of Cuba.  The Cubans are
          struggling to get by with relics that predate the 1959
          revolution.  Cuba is a living museum of American cars from
          the fifties, kept running with determination and baling
          wire.  Their pianos also are the same vintage, except for
          hundreds of cheap Russian pianos.  But even those imports
          ended with the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991.  I
          saw many talented children valiantly struggling to
          practice on broken, out-of-tune pianos.  Food is scarce,
          especially in Havana, where ration stores have meager
          supplies.  Medicine is also scarce.  Buildings are
          crumbling for lack of materials.  But the Cubans are
          patient and determined.  The embargo hurts the Cubans, but
          it will not bring Castro down; if anything it supports him
          by allowing him to blame the US for all the privation.
              The US embargo keeps other countries from trading
          freely with Cuba.  For example, an Italian ship docking in
          Cuba cannot dock in the US for six months.  The last UN
          vote on the embargo had only the US and Israel voting for
          it.  But the US bullies all countries to conform, making
          it difficult and expensive for Cuba to obtain supplies
          such as pianos and piano parts.  So almost all the pianos
          in Cuba are falling apart or being eaten by voracious
          termites.  We helped a bit by bringing 50 donated pianos,
          parts and tools, and by conducting classes for Cuban piano
          tuners. But the only real way to beat the termites is to
          end the embargo.

              The Cubans have overcome the material limitations to
          create some remarkable social programs.  I saw extensive
          music education programs not only in Havana, but in the
          rural areas.  Any child can get free piano lessons, or
          violin lessons, or ballet classes.  Literacy is about 96%.
          We saw one school that offered a complete acrobatics
          program.  Cuba provides free medical care for everyone.
          Infant mortality is lower than in Washington D.C.  I
          didn't see anyone homeless.  We visited a large
          psychiatric facility that provides excellent therapy
          programs including painting, pottery, weaving, dance,
          sports, and music.  We enjoyed a performance by the
          residents' band and chorus.  The Cubans have even turned the 
          shortages of the embargo into benefits.  The lack of petroleum 
          has forced a massive conversion to organic agriculture and 
          alternative transportation.  There are many bicycles and horse 
          carts, and the buses are always crowded.  But there are no
          traffic jams in Havana (2 million),  and the air is clear.
              The embargo works both ways.  It keeps us from getting
          Cuban music and culture.  The music of the Buena Vista
          Social Club is an example of what we might be missing by
          erecting barriers.  We are also missing valuable ideas
          about education, health, and agriculture.  Cuba conducts
          advanced medical research and has developed some new
          vaccines.  We could also be selling food and goods (lots
          of toilet seats) to Cuba and enjoying its fine beaches.
              Cuba poses no military threat to the US.  Perhaps what
          our government fears is that Americans will peek over the
          wall and see what a poor but dedicated country can
          accomplish when it values the welfare of its people,
          especially children, more than military might.  I hope
          that music can help to breach the wall.  As in ancient
          Jericho, when the people blow the trumpets, the walls will
          come tumbling down.
                        Published in the Aptos Times 
                        Home Page:  http://tyogi.org/